With the basic body shape complete it became time to do the neck rout. Neither me or Dad had ever used a router before so we had to teach our selves. With a bit of experimentation and testing on a scrap piece of wood we made a replica of the rout that turned out well. Normally a router will use a jig, a replica of the shape to be routed. We didn’t make one of these but instead used dimensions of the router, such as the distance between the edge of the machine and the start of the rout, it was quite effective and produced the shape we want.
Let’s talk about why the neck routing in particular is so important. The short verion is that it’s all about geometry. The angle between the nut at the top of the neck and the bridge (the two points between which tension will be created) has to suit the type of guitar that you are building. This picture from the Tundra Workshop website demonstrates quite well what I mean.
My guitar has a flat top, but the bridge doesn’t sit flat to the body, it’s an adjustable height type that sits a little way off the body at a minimum and so a flat neck angle would produce an uncomfortable action height, the height of the stings away from the fret board. Playing a guitar like that would not be easy, or fun. So I need an angled neck, luckily the neck I scavenged from the cheap Les Paul copy is angled at the end, but when we tested it on the practice neck rout it wasn’t quite enough, so that means the neck rout would also have to be angled. This isn’t an easy task.
It turns out that when we adjusted the router to do the proper neck pocket, it was a bit too deep, making the neck sit too close to the body. Obviously once you make a cut too big there is no going back. So what we have done is to use thin pieces of wood to prop up the neck, this doesn’t produce as stable a neck joint as a solid piece of wood, I have plans to use a small piece of the left over pine and then sculpt it to the correct neck angle to add a more stable permenant height and angle corection. For now we used thin pieces of fiber board.
Those pieces you see either side of the neck pocket will be cut to create a completely flat extension for the neck to bolt on to. If they were left there the neck joint would be a little bit more stable, but it is harder to play with extra wood in the way of the fret board, so it has to go. Attaching the neck to the body was a bit of a drama. The neck having already been bolted on to a previous guitar already had holes where it attached. Trying to line up with these hole on the back on the neck pocket proved almost impossible, so we packed the previous holes with wood and created new screw holes using the screw plate as a template from the back of the neck. With the neck attached it’s really starting to look like a guitar.
At this point I have to wait for my order to arrive from Guitar Fetish as that’s where I ordered my bridge from. I can’t drill the hole for the bridge or decide on the placement of the pickups untill I have those things in hand, so I will talk more about bridge placement, pickup placement, and pickup choice in later installments.